Peter Habeler
Born: July 22, 1942
in Mayrhofen, Austria
in Mayrhofen, Austria
Peter Habeler (born July 22, 1942) is an Austrian mountaineer. He was born in Mayrhofen, Austria. He developed an interest in mountaineering when he was six years old. Among his accomplishments as a mountaineer are his first ascents in the Rockies. He was also the first European to participate in large wall climbing in Yosemite National Park.
He started climbing with Reinhold Messner in 1969. Several mountaineering achievements followed. The most notable event was the first ascent without supplemental oxygen of Mount Everest on May 8, 1978 with Messner, which had previously been considered impossible. A year after his ascent of Everest, he published Lonely Victory ("Der einsame Sieg". Author: Eberhard Fuchs) in 1978. Habeler set further records by descending from the summit to the South Col in just one hour and climbing the north face of the Eiger in ten hours.
The other eight thousand (mountains over 8,000 meters) that Habeler has climbed are Cho Oyu, Nanga Parbat, Kangchenjunga and Gasherbrum I. He has also climbed Yerupaja Chico (6089 m) in the Peruvian Cordillera Huayhuash. The ascent of Gasherbrum I was made with Messner in 1975, three-day alpine style, and is seen by some as ushering in a new era of eight-mile alpine-style ascents, unlike the "siege" tactics that had largely prevailed up to that time. It was the first time an eight thousand had been climbed in the alpine style. Habeler attempted to climb Everest again in 2000, but failed due to fluid in his lungs.
Habeler became a ski instructor at age 21 and founded the Peter Habeler Ski and Mountaineering School in his hometown of Mayrhofen, Austria. The school is now run by his son, although Habeler still teaches occasionally. At 74, he repeated an ascent on the Eiger north face with David Lama.
He started climbing with Reinhold Messner in 1969. Several mountaineering achievements followed. The most notable event was the first ascent without supplemental oxygen of Mount Everest on May 8, 1978 with Messner, which had previously been considered impossible. A year after his ascent of Everest, he published Lonely Victory ("Der einsame Sieg". Author: Eberhard Fuchs) in 1978. Habeler set further records by descending from the summit to the South Col in just one hour and climbing the north face of the Eiger in ten hours.
The other eight thousand (mountains over 8,000 meters) that Habeler has climbed are Cho Oyu, Nanga Parbat, Kangchenjunga and Gasherbrum I. He has also climbed Yerupaja Chico (6089 m) in the Peruvian Cordillera Huayhuash. The ascent of Gasherbrum I was made with Messner in 1975, three-day alpine style, and is seen by some as ushering in a new era of eight-mile alpine-style ascents, unlike the "siege" tactics that had largely prevailed up to that time. It was the first time an eight thousand had been climbed in the alpine style. Habeler attempted to climb Everest again in 2000, but failed due to fluid in his lungs.
Habeler became a ski instructor at age 21 and founded the Peter Habeler Ski and Mountaineering School in his hometown of Mayrhofen, Austria. The school is now run by his son, although Habeler still teaches occasionally. At 74, he repeated an ascent on the Eiger north face with David Lama.
Movies for Peter Habeler...
Title: Peter Habeler: ... ich will die Welt von oben sehen
Released: January 1, 2017
Type: Movie
Title: Everest Unmasked
Character: Self
Released: January 2, 1978
Type: Movie
Record of the first ascent of Everest made without the use of oxygen equipment, made in May 1978 by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler. Could it be done? Would their blood vessels burst? Would they suffer brain damage leading to madness? Nobody was sure. Messner: 'I would never come here for trying Everest with oxygen. That is not a challenge for me.' A fascinating piece of history, well filmed by Leo Dickinson and Eric Jones (above the South Col Messner used a cine camera to continue the filming), featuring Messner and Habeler's thoughts. The film follows the usual sequence from Namche to Base Camp, through the Icefall, to Camps I, II and III. It also shows historical footage of the pioneering Mallory and Shipton expeditions.
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